Universitas Indonesia Conferences, Asian Federation for Pharmaceutical Sciences (AFPS) 2019

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Evaluation of Different Skin Penetration Enhancers in Vitamin C Peel Off Mask Formula
Agnes Anania Triavika Sahamastuti, Shania Foustine, Gisella Edny Tjugianto, Jeannifer Rebecca, Shakila Angjaya Adiyanto, Giovanni Batista Christian Daeli

Last modified: 2019-07-26


Background: Vitamin C has been widely investigated as an antioxidant, anti-aging, and skin whitening agent in many types of cosmetics. However, vitamin C is difficult to penetrate the skin barrier, and hence, failed to show its effectivity. Aloe vera, vitamin E, Tween 20, and Tween 80 have been reported to be used as a skin penetration enhancer (SPE). Objective: This study aimed to compare the effectivity of aloe vera, vitamin E, Tween 20, and Tween 80 to enhance the permeation of vitamin C in peel off mask products. Materials and Methods: Several formulations of peel off mask product containing vitamin C and different types of SPE, including aloe vera, vitamin E, Tween 20, and Tween 80 were made. The concentration of SPE was set at 0.5% and 2%. The evaluation has been done to check their effect in pH, viscosity, drying time, stability and permeation of vitamin C. The permeation study was carried out in Franz diffusion cells using pig ear skin, which resembles human skin.  Results: Aloe vera is expected to have the highest penetration enhancer effect due to its ability to increase the solubility of vitamin C within the stratum corneum. It would be shown as the highest concentration of vitamin C diffused through the skin model. The experiment is still going on and expected to be done at the end of June. Conclusion: Formula of vitamin C peel off mask containing aloe vera as SPE at a concentration of 2% is expected to show the highest delivery of vitamin C. Therefore, this formula may have potential to be used for vitamin C delivery in skin products.

Key words: Skin penetration enhancer, vitamin C, peel off mask, aloe vera, vitamin E, Tween 20, Tween 80